A Seasonal Table at Fern
Outside Fern. Scenic surroundings with plenty of parking. - (Photo: Holiday Padstow)
Nestled on the outskirts of Bodmin is Fern, a restaurant that is shaped by its surroundings; the moorland air, the changing seasons and the producers who bring the best out of Cornwall’s natural abundance. It’s all about what’s local and in season, with award winning suppliers such as Camel Valley Vineyard, whose sparkling wines are produced just minutes away. This is the South-West on a plate, with farmers, fishers and foragers, who understand the land and sea, enabling the talented chefs to craft a menu that feels in harmony with the nature that surrounds you at this upscale dining spot.
Stylish interior that brings nature inside while remaining cosy. - (Photo: Holiday Padstow)
Each dish arrives from the kitchen ready to be shared. Small plates are carefully designed to help you explore and enjoy the diverse tastes of Cornwall. The variety of options will get your group chatting excitedly about all the different dishes on offer that suit a broad variety of tastes, from those seeking comfort to the more adventurous diner. Most importantly, a meal at Fern is simply about enjoying good food that will leave you feeling satisfied.
Glorious wood furnishings and copies of Paul Welburn’s cookbook Evolve. - (Photo: Holiday Padstow)
All of this is led by executive chef Paul Welburn, who has worked alongside several renowned British chefs, including the late Gary Rhodes, and also helped Jodie Kidd open her pub in Sussex. Paul Welburn’s style sees classic, nostalgic British flavours receive a new fresh twist, while also showcasing a commitment to British seasonal produce. His achievements also speak for themselves, with an appearance on Great British Menu in 2014, and being awarded a Michelin Star on two occasions (in London and Oxford) and three AA rosettes. Since relocating to Cornwall, in addition to opening Fern, he’s also published his debut cookbook Evolve, which features versions of the fantastic dishes you’ll get to taste on your visit. Now, with that in mind, let’s explore the current offering, as with a rotating menu, no two trips to the restaurant are the same.
Hash browns and ‘crispy pigs’ to start. Delicious! - (Photo: Fern restaurant)
Bread is a good indicator of what to expect from a menu, and Paul’s country bread with whipped clotted cream butter gives an excellent first impression. Light in texture, yet deep in flavour, it’s a great start before tucking into Davidstow custard creams with blueberry ketchup, ‘crispy pigs’ with a burnt apple and leek emulsion, followed by hash browns with taramasalata and cucumber.
Aral Farm beets and confit chicken cake showcase the Cornish landscape. - (Photos: Fern restaurant)
On to the mains, where we are first greeted by baked Aral Farm beets with a Cornish Yarg custard, walnuts and orange; it’s earthy, fresh and rich all at once. Moving on to the mushroom rice, Spenwood, with pickled onion and stout caramel; deep and unctuous, a unique take on a comforting mushroom risotto. There’s a confit chicken cake with roast garlic aioli, accompanied by anchovies and parmesan. My personal favourite follows; roasted & glazed Aral Farm carrots with chickpea (a hummus that I suspect was whipped) and dukkha (a delicious sesame-forward spice mix). Next to the fish (and mollusc); cured chalk stream trout (with dill, yoghurt and pickled lemon), Barbequed octopus (in a ponzu dressing with furikake and kohlrabi) and lastly a perfectly cooked mackerel dish. Rounding out this course is a melt-in-the-mouth 24-hour lamb neck and belly with green sauce, cauliflower and sea beets.
A ‘frozen toddy’ with toasted lemon, honey and whiskey. Refreshing and rich! - (Photo: Holiday Padstow)
Perhaps many people’s most anticipated course of any meal out is dessert. You won’t be disappointed with Fern’s selection of treats. It features; Cornish Blue with Fern fruit cake and pickled walnuts, a tempting and decadent caramelised white chocolate tart with iced yoghurt, and last but not least, a ‘frozen toddy’ with toasted lemon, honey and whiskey, yum! Even describing these dishes is making me hungry to return to this restaurant.
What a view! A heritage railway track amongst the rolling hills of northern Cornwall. - (Photo: Holiday Padstow)
At Fern, your meal is guided by the gentle rhythm of the seasons and Cornwall’s abundant countryside and coast. The ever-evolving menu champions local producers and carefully crafts plates that are designed to be both savoured and shared. Surrounded by moorland and fields, Fern is an elegant escape for those looking to venture beyond Padstow, delivering a high standard of dining in a more tranquil setting. And, if you’re lucky, you’ll get a glimpse of the heritage train that passes the restaurant, making it feel as though time itself has paused, providing a gentle reminder of the ingenuity and natural beauty that shapes all aspects of the Fern experience.
